E350 Transmission Problems

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Troubleshooting is the step-by step process where you can logically diagnose a problem. This involves a process of elimination, usually starting from the simple, easy-to-check items, then moving on to more difficult items in logical sequence.

2014 Mercedes-Benz E350 Transmission Problems Common warning signs that your transmission is having issues are: An visible sign would be if your 2014 Mercedes-Benz E350 transmission warning light is on. Strange smells are a sign your transmission fluid is burning inside your components. Changing the transmission fluid, filter and gasket on our 1994 For E350 Tioga Motorhome. FYI: We are not mechanics and this is just how WE did the change. The Mercedes-Benz E350 is a comfortable, quiet and luxurious sedan, with a well-finished interior, comfortable seats and a substantial feel. Transmission, and brakes to power equipment and the. 2010 Mercedes-Benz E350 transmission problems with 3 complaints from E350 owners. The worst complaints are gear noise, no acceleration. The Mercedes-Benz E350 was offered as part of midsize E-Class series for many years, although 2014-2016 are the most recent. During this time, the E350 is characterized by a 3.5L V6 engine at 302 hp, a seven-speed automatic transmission, and rear-wheel drive.

This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, GM TURBO 350 TRANSMISSIONS: HOW TO REBUILD AND MODIFY. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
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For example, if your transmission doesn’t move the vehicle at all when placed into service after an overhaul, you should check the transmission fluid level before pulling the transmission out to check the oil pump or torque converter.

The TH350 is a rugged and durable unit, and fairly simple in construction and operation as far as automatic transmissions are concerned. If you have correctly assembled the unit, and it passed the air checks to the clutch drums through the openings in the case during assembly, any issues should be relatively easy to diagnose and repair.

If you look at the list below, it quickly becomes evident that many problems can share a common cause, such as the transmission being low on fluid, or the gear shift selector not moving the manual valve correctly.

The TH350 has one advantage over a TH400 in that the filter is attached to the bottom of the valve body and already on the bottom of the oil pan. This eliminates the potential for a leak at the suction tube or O-ring in the case. This still doesn’t mean that the filter can’t plug up and cause issues, but at least you don’t have to worry about an air leak on the suction side of the oil pump because you forgot to install an O-ring or missed a crack in the suction tube.

The most difficult problems when it comes to transmission function involve the valve body (control valve assembly). In almost all cases the valve body must be removed to correct any issues, and this should be done after all other possibilities have been eliminated. The good news as it relates to valve body problems is that the TH350 uses a cast-iron valve body with steel valves, making it rugged and nearly unaffected by over tightening fasteners.

Small pieces of dirt or debris are the enemy of the automatic transmission as it is a close-tolerance hydraulic system with quite a few moving parts. In many cases involving poor performance, sticking valves, and/ or erratic shifting, you will find that some sort of contamination has gotten into the control valve assembly and restricted proper fluid flow.

In any case, when troubleshooting the TH350, as with most other mechanical devices, start with the most simple and accessible things first, then move on to more difficult-to-inspect/repair items.

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Remembering my own experience with TH350s that suddenly quit up shifting correctly, or not at all, the cause has been loss of vacuum to the vacuum modulator, or broken teeth on the governor, both of which are relatively easy to diagnose and repair.

The following is a list of symptoms and their potential causes.

Vehicle Slips in Park

  1. Parking pawl guide damaged or incorrectly installed
  2. Parking pawl broken, cracked, or worn smooth
  3. Broken teeth on output shaft ring gear 4. Manual linkage not properly adjusted

No Drive in any Range

  1. Manual control linkage out of adjustment or manual valve S-link disconnected from lever
  2. Low oil level, blocked oil filter
  3. Low oil pressure, pressure regulator valve stuck, damaged or fell out of valve body
  4. Damaged oil pump drive gear or torque converter hub
  5. Defective torque converter
  6. Forward clutch damaged or not applying
  7. Roller clutch assembly broken or damaged 8. Broken input shaft
E350

No Drive with Range Selector in “D”

  1. Manual linkage out of adjustment
  2. Low oil level
  3. Low oil pressure or blocked oil filter
  4. Forward clutch pack no applying, forward clutch pack frictions burned up
  5. Roller clutch missing, damaged, or not holding

No 1-2 Shift

  1. Governor valve stuck, governor filter plugged
  2. Damaged governor gear or damaged governor bore in case
  3. Detent cable binding
  4. 1-2 shift valve assembly stuck or incorrect valve body gaskets
  5. Intermediate clutch incorrectly assembled or not holding, air check circuit
  6. Intermediate roller clutch broken, not holding, or sprag-type clutch incorrectly installed

1-2 Shift at Full Throttle Only

  1. Detent valve assembly stuck or incorrectly installed in valve body
  2. Detent cable stuck or out of adjustment
  3. No vacuum-to-vacuum modulator or stuck/sticking modulator or modulator valve

1st and 2nd Shift only, No 2-3 Shift

  1. Control valve 2-3 shift stuck
  2. Valve body gaskets leaking, damaged, or incorrectly installed
  3. Sealing rings on pump hub damaged or missing
  4. Direct clutch seals missing or damaged

No Reverse

  1. Low oil level
  2. Check manual control linkage
  3. Filter plugged
  4. Modulator valve stuck
  5. Direct sealing rings on pump hub broken or missing
  6. Low/reverse clutch piston seals cut or missing
  7. Number-1 check ball missing
  8. 1-2 or 2-3 valvetrain stuck
  9. Intermediate servo piston or pin stuck so that band is applied
  10. 10.Direct clutch plates burned

Slips in All Ranges

  1. Low oil level
  2. High oil level and oil foamed
  3. Vacuum modulator valve defective or sticking
  4. Filter assembly plugged
  5. Valve body gaskets misaligned or wrong gaskets
  6. Pressure regulator valve stuck
  7. Pump to case gasket damaged
  8. Forward clutch slipping

Slips on 1-2 Shift

  1. Low is incorrect oil level
  2. Sticking modulator valve or defective modulator
  3. Pressure regulator valve defective
  4. Out of position or incorrectly installed valve body gaskets
  5. Intermediate clutch seals damaged, reversed, or missing
  6. Damaged intermediate clutch plate
  7. Accumulator seals damaged or missing
  8. Damaged intermediate roller clutch or sprag type clutch installed backward

Slips on 2-3 Shift

  1. Items 1 to 4 under “Slips on 1-2 shift”
  2. Direct clutch plates burnt
  3. Damaged or missing oil sealing rings on pump hub
  4. Damaged or missing seals on direct clutch apply piston
  5. Damaged or missing 2-3 accumulator seals

1993 E350 Motorhome Transmission Problems


2006 Mercedes E350 Transmission Problems

Harsh 1-2 Shift

  1. Broken or damaged 1-2 accumulator piston
  2. Blocked 1-2 accumulator feed hole in valve body plate or blockage in passages to 1-2 accumulator

No 1-2 Shift, but Has 1-3 and 3-1

2016 E350 Transmission Problems

  1. Broken or not holding intermediate roller clutch
  2. Aftermarket 36-element clutch installed backward

No Engine Braking in Second

  1. Intermediate servo sealing rings damaged or missing
  2. Intermediate servo stuck on pin or in bore in case
  3. Accumulator rings broken, damaged accumulator bore, or accumulator piston stuck
  4. Intermediate overrun band damaged, burned, or broken
  5. Low oil pressure, pressure regulator valve stuck, boost valve stuck

No Engine Braking in Low

  1. Manual low control valve assembly stuck
  2. Low oil pressure
  3. Pressure regulator and/or boost valve stuck
  4. Low/reverse piston seals damaged, broken, or missing
2014 e350 transmission problems

No Part Throttle Downshift

  1. Low oil pressure
  2. Vacuum modulator defective or modulator valve sticking
  3. Pressure regulator valvetrain assembly malfunctioning
  4. Detent valve stuck or sticking; detent cable damaged or sticking
  5. 2-3 shift valve stuck

No Detent Downshifts

  1. 2-3 valve stuck
  2. Detent valve, linkage, or cable sticking, disconnected, damaged, or broken

Low- or High-Shift Points

Problems2010 e350 transmission problems
  1. Low or high oil level
  2. Check vacuum at modulator and hoses in between modulator and carburetor/intake manifold
  3. Vacuum modulator defective
  4. Modulator valve stuck or sticking
  5. Pressure regulator valve stuck or sticking
  6. Governor assembly
  7. Restricted feed hole or blocked filter to governor
  8. Detent valve stuck open 9. 1-2 or 2-3 valvetrain sticking

2010 E350 Transmission Problems

Slow Engagement Cold

  1. Low oil pressure
  2. Piston seals old and no longer pliable; common problem for old units that need rebuilding

Noisy Transmission

E350 Transmission Problems

  1. Noise from pump caused by high or low oil level
  2. Cavitation from plugged oil filter
  3. Water in oil
  4. Damaged oil pump gears and housing
  5. Worn or damaged planetary gears
  6. Burnt or worn clutch plates, or burnt lining on band

E350 Transmission Problems

Written by Cliff Ruggles and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks

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Mercedes E350 Transmission Problems

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